Tulip Diseases

As garden plants go, tulips square measure among the foremost widespread, best worth and comparatively sickness free plants that you simply should purchase. sadly high volume production techniques and a tolerance to unsympathetic environmental conditions has seen a gentle increase in unhealthful attack. though fortunately its still quite rare to search out pathological bulb stocks within the garden, there square measure additional and additional infected bulbs imminent the market place direct from the growers. the foremost common diseases {you square measure|you're} possible to search out are as follows.

Tullip Gray Bulb Rot:

Symptoms: The bulbs can either fail to emerge, or they'll manufacture severely distorted shoots which can eventually wither and die. Below ground, the bulbs can flip gray and more and more drier because the rot develops, till solely the roots and basal plate stay.

Cause: the flora Rhizoctonia tuliparum. this can not solely infect tulips however several alternative varieties of bulbs besides.

Control: sadly there's no cure, however to forestall additional infection you want to take away and burn all the infected plants. Next you want to removal of the encircling soil which may be sterilized mistreatment Jeye's fluid or burning. don't plant alternative bulbs within the same spot for a minimum of 5 years just in case of re-infection from dormant spores.

Tulip Crown Rot:

Symptoms: The bulbs can either fail utterly of simply to emerge. Any new growth that will seem are going to be severely distorted solely to wither and die. The bulb itself can flip gray and dry up till solely the roots and basal plate stay.

Cause: A flora referred to as Sclerotium delphinii which may lie dormant within the soil for several years. Infections sometimes occur on the stems close to the soil surface. though not widespread, it will cause serious injury, particularly in damp, warm soils.

Control: take away all affected foliage now and to forestall additional infection you want to take away and burn all infected plants and soil. don't plant tulips within the same space for a minimum of 3 years as this can discourage the build from from now on sickness. strive planting later within the season to discourage the sickness from developing. In milder climates it is left as late as early Jan. raise bulbs at the tip of the season and mud with AN antifungal sulphur powder.

Tulip Fire:

Symptoms: The bulbs ought to emerge however they'll be showing withered, distorted foliage with pale colored flecks. generally the infection shows as a scorched look, presently followed by a fuzzy mould. The plants can typically fail to mature or flower however if the flowers do open, the petals can show bleached spots. The flower stems also will be weak and vulnerable to collapse.

Cause: the flora Botrytis tulipae. The fungous spores overwinter within the soil on infected bulbs. Once the flora displays its mature bodies, new spores square measure unfold to alternative plants by air or water splash.

Control: take away all affected foliage now and to forestall additional infection you want to take away and burn all infected plants and soil. don't plant tulips within the same space for a minimum of 3 years as this can discourage the build from from now on sickness. strive planting later within the season to discourage the sickness from developing. In milder climates it is left as late as early Jan. raise bulbs at the tip of the season and mud with AN anti-fungal sulphur powder.

Tulip Breaking Virus:

Symptoms: This virus causes color breaking on the petals of pink, purple and red floral cultivars though yellow and white colored varieties aren't affected. This 'breaking' will take the shape of conspicuous white or yellow streaking across the petals or streaking of a darker shade compared to the first color. someday you will see a mix of the 2 effects. sometimes you will come upon marking or uncovering of the plants leaves.

Cause: This virus is transferred from plant to plant by the subsequent aphids - Myzus persica, Macrosiphum euphorbiae, and Aphis fabae. because the louse bites into AN infected plant, tiny amounts of the virus square measure left in it mouthparts. once the louse moves to a different host the virus enters the plants vasculr system once the louse yet again starts to feed.
Control: the simplest means that of treatment is to get rid of and burn infected plants as you see them. As a precaution, don't plant tulips next to liles as they're additionally able to carry the virus, permitting cross contamination to occur.